Milling flour is a dying art, as a result of consolidation and technological advances. There are only 59 mills remaining in the UK, owned by some 30 companies. The romantic vision of watermills and Windy Miller’s windmill is largely a thing of the past. However there are a few independent millers, such as Wessex Mill , still in production today supplying craft and home bakers.
Wessex Mill, owned and operated by the 4th generation of the Munsey family, is one of the smallest flour mills still roller-milling wheat today. The business was established by William Henry Munsey in 1895 and is now run by his great grandson, Paul Munsey. The mill is situated in an imposing four storey, red brick building in Wantage, Oxfordshire. Wessex Mill is a frenetic, noisy place spread over four floors with machines continuously sorting, rolling and sieving wheat. The flour is then packed and stored ready to be dispatched. The Mill is run by 35 loyal, local employees, many of whom have worked at the mill for many years and introduced their children too. At present, there are two brothers who work together, a father and his son and a father and his two sons. Such continuity and experience makes for a happy workforce and great tasting flour.
Wessex Mill predominantly uses local wheat grown on the downs surrounding Wantage. They have long-term contracts with local farmers who produce wheat to their exacting standard. Most of the wheat is collected by the mill in their own lorries so as they can check the quality and consistency of each batch. The source of wheat is written on the back of each packet of flour indicating the exact farm where the wheat came from.
Flour School
Wheat is the only grain that contains gluten which provides the framework for dough to rise by stretching and trapping the gas bubbles given off by yeast as it grows. The starch within the wheat breaks down into sugar during the fermentation process providing food for the yeast to grow and produce C02. Wheat needs to be ground to the correct consistency to break enough starch granules to give sufficient food for the yeast to grow. The type of wheat, where it is grown, and the milling process all influence the amount of gluten which is present in the wheat. The higher the gluten content, the more volume the bread will have.
Once the wheat is collected from local farmers it is stored in large silos at the mill and then cleaned in a rather Heath Robinson esque machine (above) in order to take out straw, small seeds like cockle and vetch, as well as oats and barley. Water is then added to the wheat to soften the outer bran skin which prevents it turning to powder when ground.
Each wheat kernel has a crease running down the side which is split open during the rolling process (above) by steel rollers which have small teeth. Two rollers are used in this process, one above the other. The wheat sticks to the bottom roller and is then split open by the top roller which spins faster. The current rolling machines were bought second hand in the 1980′s and date back to the 1940′s.
After the first grind a mixture of bran, semolina and flour is produced which is then sieved. The huge principal sieving machine (above) at Wessex Mill has 24 sieve plates which the flour passes through. Any resulting bran goes off to be rolled again to ensure all of the endosperm has been released. The semolina is then sieved to separate it from the small pieces of bran and then ground into flour using smooth rollers. As semolina is very hard it is gradually turned into flour by grinding and sieving it several times. As a result, there are a number of streams of flour which are all mixed together to produce a consistent, strong quality flour.
The flour is then bagged (above) into 10kg, 16kg or 25kg sizes for craft bakeries and smaller 1.5kg bags for home bakers.
Wessex Mill still have a traditional miller’s hoist (above) which lifts bags of flour from one level of the mill to another.
Six Seed Loaf
(Bread Machine Recipe)
- 2 ½ tsp yeast
- 500g Wessex Mill Six Seed flour
- 1 ½ tsp salt
- 1 ½ tsp butter
- 280-320 mls of water to suit particular machine
The rise in home bread-making driven largely by the introduction of better bread making machines, like the Panasonic SD-255, has helped expand Wessex Mill’s flour production. They are currently producing around 7,000 bags per week to keep up with demand! They have won three consecutive Gold Medals during 2008 & 2009 at the Guild of Fine Food Awards. My particular favourites are:
- Six Seed – Made from linseed, poppy seed, sesame seed, millet & sunflower seeds. A nutty wholesome loaf.
- Wessex Cobber – Made from malted wheat and granary in style.
- French Bread – Made from French wheat.
- Mixed Pepper & Basil – Made from a mixture of flour, red & green peppers and a hint of basil
I have to say, there is nothing quite like waking up to the waft of freshly baked bread…
{ 5 comments… read them below or add one }
Yes, we sell the 6 Seed and the French Bread flour, some of the flavoured ones as well.
My colleague makes her mince pies at Christmas using some of the Cinnamon & Apple mix!
They really are very good either in the bread machine or traditional oven.
We tried the Pumpernickel which was very good too
My colleague makes her mince pies at Christmas using some of the Cinnamon & Apple mix!
+1
Your flour is great, I wish I’d discovered it sooner, 72 now and 17 years in Australia with good flour, then 20 in this using Supermarket stuff, lots of failures. Now I’m enjoying baking again, it is quality flour, and I know quality when I find it.
Dorothy, thanks for your comments and keep up the good work!